Equipment for rock photography, with or without a photo pass

Regardless of experience or involvement in rock photography, you will fall into 1 of 4 camps.

This will dictate the photographic gear you can take to the venue which essentially means you can either be seen taking photographs with a pass or you're stuck in with the crowd (however big that is) with a compact camera.

The way I see it these four camps of rock photography are

1) Those who aren't meant to be shooting concert pictures (bigger venue and no pass - compact camera)
2) Those who aren't there to take concert pictures but it doesn't matter (smaller venue so passes not required - compact camera or DSLR system)
3) Those who are with the band (DSLR system and possibly a compact camera)
4) Those professionals who are specifically there to take concert pictures for a news outlet (bigger venue with photo pass - Large DSLR system, possibly with two bodies and multiple lenses)

The equipment you can use can therefore differ greatly. This is dependant on if its ok to be clearly seen taking better than average shots. So you are therefore in one of these clusters.

a) Those who are meant to be there and can expect more leeway given to them, 
b) Those who aren't meant to be there and cant really expect anything other than a crowds eye view and no favours. Take a liberty and they'll be asked to leave.

This article is intended to offer some suggestions of rock photography equipment you could consider adding to your toolbox in either of these circumstances. Somedays you'll be shooting on a pass, some days you wont be.

This rock photography article is part of a series of 4, with 2 further, shorter appendices on tips and gear. You may wish to also visit these

Rock Photography and Concert Pictures: Part 1
Rock Photography and Concert Pictures: Part 2
Rock Photography and Concert Pictures: Part 3
Rock Photography and Concert Pictures: Part 4
Rock Photography Tips
Rock Photography Equipment

ISO importance 

Why high quality and fast ISO is important

Many people reading will know that thiis issue is a fundamental law of any low light photography. You have a shutter, you have an aperture and you also have the ISO setting. the three of these dictate how well exposed the image is and your own experience will dictate how well exposed you want it to be. sometimes under exposed, sometimes (but rarely) over exposed.

1) The amount of light that hits the cameras sensor in any time frame, through the lens, is dictated by the aperture (AV on Canon). Essentially the RATE of light into the camera.

The aperture setting also dictates the depth of field. The lower the number (f/2.8, f/4/ f/5.6 etc) the shorter the depth of field (less area in focus) and the faster the light entering the camera.

Low light photography environments requires a lower aperture (eg faster lens) to get light in faster during your very short shutter speed.

2) For what length of time the camera exposes the sensor is dictated by the shutter speed. Too fast a shutter speed (short a period of time the shutter is open) and your image will be too dark. To long an exposure and your subject (particularly a performer) and you will get motion blur and the movement gets recorded. Far too much an hand movements from yourself start to blur the image.

So Aperture and shutter speed together dictate the exposure (brightness of the image) and the depth of field (how much is in focus) and any motion blur or hand shake blur.

So what happens if the image is too dark and if you open the shutter up for longer its still too dark AND starting to blur? You turn to the ISO setting.

3) The light sensitivity of the sensor for that shot is dictated by the ISO setting.

For many live music acts you need a relatively fast shutter speed or the movement blurs the image. So you need to ensure you can get this by making your sensor more sensitive. So the idea is that your aperture is low enough(fast enough) to allow a fast shutter speed. But if it isnt fast enough, you need to increase your ISO.

But here lies the problem. If you are shooting on a high ISO (sensitivity) you introduce more digital noise into the picture. This is in no way as bad as it used to be. There is very little difference between 400 and 800 and not much more between 800 and 1600.

Compact Cameras for Rock Photography

Smaller cameras to shoot at gigs

Compact cameras are problematic with low light photography due to both the lenses and the functions that many of them are missing, plus complex menu systems that you wont have time to fiddle with at a gig.

Most compact cameras will suffer badly at highr ISO setings so on balance they are not likely to be much good for some time. there are however exceptions.

This shot shown was taken in poor light with a Canon Powershot G10.The colours are off and it required a great deal of work just to get this.

But you can easily get a Canon G10 into a gig and these days security doesnt see it as an issue (although I advise discretion).

Fuji Digital Cameras are known for being good in low light due to the sensor set up which is quite unique to Fuji.

If considering a compact fo rrock photography then consider the  Fujifilm F70 EXR. Be advised that Fuji often update their range so by reviewing the Fuji Digital Cameras available to see the current options.

Alternatively, and as my preference, you could consider a fast lens compact like the  Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 or the  Canon Powershot S90.

The reason for this is the lenses are fast and you may not be required to increase the ISO as hard. But of course, with a faster lens comes a shallower depth of field and the subject may move out of the very short plane of focus so your focussing needs to be spot on. This is not normally a problem on compacts though due tot he fact that the lens lengths are referred to in 35mm equivalent terms when in reality they are much wider and because of that the depth of field increaes. This phenomenon is more prone to DSLRs in particular full frame DSLRs. It is probably best to look into the latest ranges of Canon Digital Cameras or Panasonic Digital Cameras

Whatever you choose you should ensure an exposure compensation dial is included on the camera or prefereably to be able to shoot manually as gigs have dark areas so your concert pictures should as well.

You do not want the camera trying to 'correct' the expose as they will be unrealistic and to be honest a little lifeless.

Furthermore, make sure you can switch the flsh OFF. Reasons for this are two fold. They arent allowed and they ruin every shot. Compact camera flashes work for roughly 8 feet. And they adjust your exposure setting to accomodate this. Lovely if all you want to do is get a reasonable exposure of the backs of the heads of the people for the three rows in front of you.

You will see hundreds of compact cameras at gigs. This advice willlift your images to a distinguishable cut above what they take home. I am ALWAYS getting asked about this by friends and it always ends the same way.

Larger DSLR Systems for Rock photography

Camera systems for better concert pictures

The nature of any DSLR will mean thay are better able to provide the result you want over any compact camera. The larger sensor (and better results at higher ISO's) the range of lenses and the functionality mean you can easily hit the mark.

But if you're using a DSLR for Rock Photography then it is probable that itis OK for you to be there taking pictures and nobody is going to question you. So if you're going to take a DSLR then make it a good one.

Many manufacturers make brilliant DSLRs these days because digital image technology has improved so much in recent years. Like cars, no one makes a bad one.

There are a few functions your DSLR must.

Spot metering.
Shoot without flash (prefereably none at all. Pro ones do nothave built in flash).
Good auto focussing system with and numerous AF points and assist AF points. in low light its on ly the center one which is any good but make sure this is in place... Plus an AF servo mode to track a subject with..
RAW file support
A shutter priority mode
A manual shooting
And rather importantly, an auto sensor cleaning function. You will change lenses quite often in less than hygenic environments. You need this.

In addition to a good DSLR body you will need fast lenses.

This is where discussion polarises into why you might opt to only look into the Canon and Nikon ranges. And quite understandably because of the range oflenses available, some of them with similar performance. But no other manufacturers can compare. Sigma do great lenses and a wide range but sigma DSLR's use fovian sensors which are not as good in low light as they should be. I would strongly advise deciding on either Canon or nikon and sticking to that decision.

What is more impressive and a reason to stick with these two makes is lens manufacturers Tamron, sigma an dTokina all l make every lens in thier respective ranges to fit both canon and Nikon cameras. Reason enough to select one of these two camera systems.

Canon EOS DSLR camera system for rock photography 

The Canon EOS and EF/EF-s range of bodies and lenses

The Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens is a great choice and everyone should have one regardless of what they shoot. Being a prime its not too flexible in terms of composition but as realistically as fast an aperture as you are likely to need. In addition to this, its a cheap as chips at about £95. Totally invaluable. Get one.

Another great addition would be the Canon 135mm f/2.0. this is sharp, longer than most primes and pin sharp. It has a great length for the environment but costs around £950. It IS however a great lens that will always command a high second hand price. Rock photography buffs swear by it.

A new edition to my camera bag is the EF85mm f/1.8. At f/1.8 it is extremely fast, the auto focus is like lightening and of course is a prime. Better still is it was only £340.00. I was advised to buy this lens and I did, it is now my first port of call in low light..

Canon also produce 2 70-200 f/2.8 L Series lenses. One has 'Image Stbilisation' and one doe snot. Image stabilisation will not benefit you in rock photography so for the cheaper one while they still make them.. Canon also repeat this format with the cheaper and slower F4 versions.

For normal concert pictures you really cant go wrong with the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L. At about £1000 this is anything but cheap but it IS a GREAT professional lens that you will be able to use in any situation.

When it comes to the Canon bodies for Rock Photography there is a issue with lens compatability. This is because Canon produce EF lenses and EF-S (shot-back focus) lenses.

EF lenses work on all EOS bodies. Simple. However EF-S lenses will only fit onto cropped frame camera bodies. They are usually a bit cheaper too.

The EF-S lenses will only work on these Camera bodies

EOS 300D
EOS 350D
EOS 400D
EOS 450D
EOS 500D
EOS 550D
EOS 20D
EOS 30D
EOS 40D
EOS 50D
EOS 7D

In summary, anything besides 1D and 5D bodies, plus a few of the older semi pro bodies (10D etc.)

They will NOT work on 5d's or 1Ds or earlier cameras like the 10D.

In terms of bodies to attach your lens to the 30,40 or 50D are excellent cameras. However, the system comes into its own on the larger bodies such as the 5D / 5D MkII or the 1D or 1Ds cameras (MK I, II, III or the new 1Ds mark IV or the 1D MK4). Obviously this means a greater investment.

Now if the cost of these lenses is starting to scare you into doing landscapes then take heart. Sigma make excellent, well built and high quality lenses that compare with the Canons and even surpass them. In addition to this Tamron and Tokina produce excellent lenses as well but build quality isnt quite as good. These are however VERY competitively priced against their Canon equivalents.

Nikon DSLR camera system for Rock Photography

Nikon gear for Rock photography

Like the Canon lenses above, Nikon make equivalent lenses at similar price points.

Nikon lenses for live music include
AF-D 50mm f/1.8,
AF-D 135mm f/2.0
AF-S 70-200 f/2.8 (IF) VR ED version I for about £1,500 and an upgraded version for about £2,000
AF-S 24-70 f/2.8
AF-S 17-55 F/2.0 DX

Some modern Nikon bodies such as the D40, D40X, D60, D3000 and D5000 do not have autofocus motors i the lens but instead rely on one being in the lens.. This reduces weight, size and prices of the cameras but of course has caused incompatibility within the nikon range. So like Canon, careful selection is essential.

Any Nikon with 'AF-S' in the title will work fine on anything, as would a Sigma with 'HSM'. Many other Sigma and Tamron lenses will work but it is still best to check for compatability.

Unlike Canon, all monerd Nikon cameras can take any modern Nikon lens. this includes the older manual focus lenses. The only potential problem to be aware of is coverage from the DX lenses, for instance the AF-S 18-55mm VR DX WILL FIT, however you will get vinnetting on a full frame camera making it pointless doing this.